Kolkata- A Kaleidoscope of Memories by Promita

Kolkata is the city of my cherished childhood days. My Kolkata memories have always been a special part of who I am today…colorful snippets of thought sewn together by loving bonds to create a rich tapestry of unforgettable memories.

For us Bongs, far away from home, Kolkata beckons to us with the nostalgia of days gone by. When I share my childhood stories with my son, it’s a mesmerizing world of enticing sights, sounds and tastes to him…and a mystical sensory journey down memory lane to me.

I tell my son about the sultry summer days, weeks of no-school and no-homework. Lazy long afternoons spent reading in the latticed verandahs - the sun casting lacy shadows on the bright red floors, the antique grandfather clock chiming away the hours. Sneaking up to the terrace to taste deliciously sour mango pickles, playing in the tiny, dingy room tucked away in the corner of roof - the cool musty smell of ages past surrounding me, I'd sit there waiting to be discovered while we play hide and seek.

I share with my son, vivid descriptions of the monsoon rains, flooded streets - wading through knee-deep water…These sound so strange to him that he can only stare at me wide-eyed, trying hard to visualize what I described. I also remember the hot cups of tea with spicy pakoras - a staple during rainy evenings and of course, steaming plates of delicious khichuri for lunch.

Durga Puja is yet another unforgettable memory from my days growing up. Autumn would creep in, with blue skies seemingly washed clear by the rains, the sound of pujor dhaak and the smell of dhoop dhuno in the cool air…the whole city decked in lights and color, fervent prayers to the goddess for all things unattainable - a sense of peace & contentment, a wonderful time for us all.

Rum Balls from Nahoum's

Then came the chilly, clear winters, special memories of Christmas, decorations, walks down Park Street, fruit cake from “Nahoum's”, invariable visits to the zoo, family picnics on the grass, goodies to share – and the fresh citrusy smell of oranges, as we peeled them, juices trickling down our fingers!

The year would wind up with schools reopening but we had Saraswati Puja to look forward to. The spring season was heralded by vibrant hues of red, yellow and orange to match the offering of marigolds to the goddess, a time for budding romance in the neighborhood – some lovelorn “Paara r dada” pursuing his elusive ladylove, all the girls dressed in their first yellow sarees participating in the neighborhood cultural programs.

Just as these evoke my Kolkata memories, for my husband, Kolkata is all about good food. The city has always tempted the discerning Bengali palate with its array of delicacies. My husband’s fondest memories are of delicious mishti from “Bhim Nag”, elaborate meals during family celebrations and hot “kochuri – tarkari” on Sunday mornings with orange, syrupy “jeelipies”. He can talk dreamily about these for hours.

Jilipi or Jalebi

This is why my cousins who have had to relocate to other Indian cities roam the streets like lost souls in their quest to discover “authentic Bengali cuisine” outside Kolkata and when they find some quaint Bong eatery tucked away in a corner of Mumbai, there is a triumphant post on their Facebook page announcing their success!

This culture and ethos of the city can be felt by us Bongs alone. The spirit and pace of the city, the incessant traffic and noise, the adda sessions with beloved friends – are all integral parts of Kolkata. So to end my sojourn, I just want to say wherever I am, I love you Kolkata – my Kolkata of painted green shutters, yellow cabs, azure autumn skies and gray monsoon rains. This is the Kolkata of my dreams!

Promita Bhattacharya currently calls Charlotte, North Carolina home. She has a 10 year old son and a newborn daughter. Promita was born and brought up in Kolkata, studied in Presidency and then shifted base to the US with her husband.  

PS: All images from google images. Click on the pictures to navigate to the websites.

Kolkata Getaway: Bishnupur

About 150 kms from Kolkata the ancient town of Bishnupur awaits your weekend tryst with history. Bishnupur used to be the capital of the old kingdom of Mallubhum named after the ruling dynasty, the Mallas. Mallas of Bishnupur are one of the rare examples of Hindu dynasties in India which ruled uninterruptedly for more than a thousand years.
The history of this city can be traced back to 694 AD, when King Raghunath 1 founded the Malla dynasty. In 994 AD the place was named Bishnupur after the Hindu god Vishnu. It reached the helm of its glory at the end of the 16th century and continued till the 18th century, and this is reflected in its rich architecture, music and handicarfts like pottery and weaving.
You can still witness the brilliantly intricate terracotta work depicting the Ramayana, Mahabharata, Puranas and other tales of Hindu mythology on the outer and inner walls of the Rash Mancha (1600 AD), Syamrai Panchachura (1642) Jor Bangla (1655) Madanmohan (1694) and many other temples which have withstood the ravages of time.

Durga Puja at the Mrinmayee Temple is arguably the oldest Durga Puja dating back to 997 AD commenced by King Jagat Malla. The rituals followed till date for the puja are traditional to the Malla Dynasty including firing of the Grand Cannon at the time of Sandhipuja (evening puja). Since immersion of the idol of Maa Mrinmoyee is forbidden by the ancient royal tradition, the diety in this temple is said to be more than 1000 years old.
In fact there is history scattered across this place. Apart from the temples, many other ancient relics like the Pathar Darja (the giant stone gateway to the Rajdarbar area), the Dalmadal (the mega sized cannon) or the Ghumghar (especially built to execute convicts) takes your imagination back centuries.
Music enthusiasts may find it interesting that Bishnupur Gharana, developed under the patronage of the Malla kings, is the only Indian Classical Gharana from the eastern part of the country.
To promote local tourism, art and music, the government has started an annual event in Bishnupur called Bishnupur Utsab or Bishnupur Mela, which is held during the last week of December.


Reaching there:
By train: You can either that Rupashi Bangla Express from Santragachi Station at 6.25 am and reach Bishnupur station at 9.40 am or Purulia Express from Howrah at 4.50 pm and reach there at 8 pm. Return from Bishnupur Station is at about 7.30 am by Purulia Express or 5.30 pm by Rupashi Bangla.
By Car: We took about 5 hours to drive via this route Kolkata- Dankuni - Durgapur Expressway- left at Ratanpur crossing- Tarakeshwar- Arambag- Katulpur- Jaipur- Bishnupur.

Stay and food: Recommended place- Bishnupur tourist lodge. You can book it in advance from West Bengal Tourism office at Tourism Center, 3/2 BBD Bag East, Kolkata 700001.
Rooms and service are satisfactory. Tourist attractions are also close. Food is good, particularly the Bengali cuisine. Apart from a restaurant the lodge also houses a bar.
Other stay options are Hotel Holiday Resort, Monalisa Lodge, Udayan Lodge etc.

Getting around:
Cycle rickshaws and auto rickshaws are available for local site seeing and most of the drivers also double up as guides with their limited knowledge. Cars are also available on hire.

What to see: 
Depending on your level of ineterst in ancient relics and history, the site seeing of Bishnupur would take you 3-6 hours. Most of the major terra cotta temples are within a 4 km radius. The Archaeological Survey of India maintains most of the sites and levies a nominal fee od Rs 5 for entry to the most famous temples.
We started from Rash Mancha. You also get the tickets there. Rash Mancha is a pyramidal structure built in 1587- 1600 by Bir Hambir in the center of the town, where deities from other temples were brought in a procession at the time of the Rasa festival.
Other major temples are Shyamrai Temple, Jorbangla, Mrinmoyee, Madanmohon, Nandlal, Radhamadhab, Kalachand, Radhagobinda, Radhalaljiu and Jugalkishor Temples. Other relics and attractions which are a must visit are Dalmadal Kaman, Pathar Darja, Ghumghar, Lalbhandh and Lalgarh.

At a distance of about 10 kms from Bishnupur is the village of Panchmura where the local artisnas make the famous terracotta horses which is now one of the symbols of Indian handicraft. You may also visit Jairambati and Kamarpukur, the birthplaces of Ramkrishna Paramhansa and Ramkrishna Ashram which is about 43 kms from Bishnupur.




Shopping:

Bishnupur is also known for its dexterous weavers. The famous Baluchari and Swarnachari sareea are made here. There are many good saree shops around, but we visited Kanishka near Lalbandh. There are plenty of options dor souvenir shopping in the form of terracotta, handicrafts and conch shell items.

Best time to visit Bishnupur is in the winters.

By Prosenjit